Royal Flush Havanese Puppy Care and Training

The following information offers useful tips on how to properly care for your new Havanese puppy – from the time you take your new baby home, and throughout his life. Royal Flush Havanese Puppy Care and Training is essential reading for all of our puppy buyers. Bookmark this page so that you can refer to it as needed. Thank you!

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Before You Bring Your Puppy Home

Read DOG LANGUAGE for you, any children, and who ever will be in contact with your Havanese and for anyone your Havanese may meet.

Preparing For Your Havanese Puppy

I will send you home with a collar, short leash, blanket with the scent of Mom and littermates, toothbrush, food, NuVet vitamins(enough for a few days), toy, health record and guarantee. Your pup will be up to date with all shots and preventative treatments. You might want to have:

• One long leash measuring 8′-10′, and a short leash measuring 4′ that we provide for you
• 2 bowls, not plastic. Plastic can turn black noses brown or pink
• A crate of your personal preference in style roughly 24″ long, 14″ wide and 18″ tall.  This is not an exact science and crate sizes are not constant among manufacturers. This size crate is very roomy for your pup as an adult. You will use blankets, towels, or boxes to block off the back of the crate now and only give your pup room to lay down and turn around.  If you let your pup have the whole crate, he will make an apartment with a bathroom on one end and a bedroom on the other. You only want him to have a bedroom 🙂 Only use a soft crate for air travel. We recommend using the hard sided Gunner Kennels: G1 Intermediate Crate, as it is made with the highest quality materials, engineered using the best processes, and comes with a limited lifetime warranty.  If you wish you can choose a smaller crate for your little pup initially.
• A comb and pin brush (or slicker brush)
• Nail trimmers are optional but you might want to trim his nails just a bit every 2 weeks. Make sure you have a product like Kwik Stop styptic powder in case you cut too short.
• A moisturizing puppy/dog shampoo, not human products.  We recommend using NuVet shampoos, which you can read more about by clicking here.  
• I HIGHLY urge you to stay on the recommended food, Life’s Abundance Small/Medium Breed Puppy Food,  and use Life’s Abundance throughout your dog’s life. I absolutely feel as though this is the best nutrition for your dog’s optimal health. You can get the wholesale price by clicking the link and getting on an autoship program. They ship right to your door. This is the freshest product available and never arrives to you more than 6 weeks old.  It keeps in the resealable bag for a year. Most store bought dog food doesn’t even make it to the shelf until it’s 6 months old. More on this dog food below.
• I also STRONGLY recommend that you keep your pup on NuVet Supplements throughout his life. It will boost his immune system and keep him as healthy as possible. Our adults and pups are on NuVet and I wouldn’t have it any other way. We are so fortunate to have consistently healthy adults and pups. You can order by phone or internet by clicking any NuVet link on this page. Dog food can only hold so many ingredients and NuVet is the best way to bridge the gap between average and optimal health for your dog.
• Ordering NuJoint is a must! Given in conjunction with the NuVet Supplements, NuJoint actually promotes healthy hip and patella development, expanding mobility & flexability, as well as protecting those healthy joints! We highly reccomend adding Nuoint to your daily Nuvet Supplement to assisst in optimal development and health! You can order by phone or internet by clicking any NuJoint link on this page.
• Rope toys, hard rubber toys and stuffed toys are all acceptable. As soon as a stuffed toy starts to come apart, either sew it or throw it! No rawhide, no bones, not ever.
• I like to have dog beds throughout the house. It’s nice to train your pup to go to his bed when you are cooking, entertaining, etc and you don’t want him underfoot. Dog beds can be washed easily but if he curls up on the same spot on the carpet, that’s a much bigger project to clean.
• In general, I suggest to pass by the store treat section. You have a tiny puppy. He needs his nutrition from his food (not your table scraps either), and too many treats may upset his stomach.  Also, you don’t want him nibbling at your hand every time you go to pet him because he is expecting a treat. The ONLY Royal Flush Havanese approved treats on the market are Life’s Abundance Tasty Rewards. They have a great smell that will get your canine’s attention for successful training and they aren’t empty calorie junk treats. They are tasty and made from wholesome ingredients.  You can rip one treat into small pieces and give to your pup on limited occasions.  We also suggest Buffalo Bully Sticks, Porky Puffs, and Antioxidant Health Bars through Life’s Abundance,  which you can read more about and order by clicking here. 

Royal Flush Havanese Puppy Care Instructions

VERY IMPORTANT! READ CAREFULLY!

WHEN YOUR NEW PUPPY COMES HOME, MAKE IT A RELAXING FIRST 24 HRS. STRESS CAN CAUSE A VARIETY OF PROBLEMS. ENCOURAGE YOUR PUPPY TO EAT SOON AFTER YOU GET HOME. IF HE ISN’T INTERESTED IN EATING BY DINNER TIME, RUB A LITTLE KARO SYRUP OR HONEY ON HIS GUMS. THIS WILL HELP KEEP HIS BLOOD/SUGAR LEVEL FROM FALLING IF HE ISN’T EATING AT ALL. (Pup must eat something!) Even if it’s just a few kibbles, that’s good. Life’s Abundance Small/Medium Breed Puppy Food is a very concentrated wholesome food so even a few kibbles are providing excellent nutrition. You feed less of this food than any other food I have researched. You can mix in JUST a bit of Life’s Abundance canned food if you prefer.

• SECOND PUPPY SHOT DUE AROUND 10 WEEKS
• THIRD PUPPY SHOT DUE AROUND 13 WEEKS
• FOURTH PUPPY SHOT DUE AROUND 16 WEEKS
• RABIES SHOT SHOULD BE GIVEN AS CLOSE TO 4 MONTHS AS POSSIBLE.
• YOUR PUP’S IMMUNE SYSTEM IS NOT FULLY CAPABLE OF FIGHTING DISEASE UNTIL AT LEAST THE 4TH SHOT – HE/SHE CAN CATCH HUMAN AILMENTS LIKE STREP THROAT AND A VARIETY OF DOG DISEASES SO DO NOT BRING YOUR PUPPY AROUND SICK PEOPLE OR WHERE OTHER ANIMALS ARE OR HAVE BEEN. NO PET STORE, NO PARK, ETC.
• DO NOT LET YOUR VET GIVE MORE THAN 1 VACCINE AT A TIME! SMALL BREEDS ARE LESS TOLERANT. YOU NEED TO BE PROACTIVE TO PROTECT YOUR PUPPY.
• FLEA AND TICK PREVENTATIVE IS VERY IMPORTANT. ASK YOUR VET WHAT WORKS BEST FOR YOUR AREA.
• HEARTGUARD MONTHLY IS IMPORTANT – IF YOUR PUPPY DOESN’T TOLERATE THIS MONTHLY ADMINISTRATION, USE THE DAILY HEARTGUARD
• MAKE SURE THERE ARE NO CLEANERS, CARPET POWDERS, SHARP OBJECTS, OR ANYTHING ANYWHERE YOUR PUPPY MIGHT BE THAT MIGHT POSE HIM/HER HARM. PUPPYPROOF YOUR HOUSE! I’M DEAD SERIOUS ON THIS ONE. AIR FRESHENERS, SANITIZERS, ETC. CAN KILL IF SPRAYED ON PUPS, BOWLS, FOOD, WATER, CRATES, ETC. MAKE SURE YOU RINSE EVERYTHING THOROUGHLY!
• DON’T LET VET GIVE DRONTAL AS WORMER!! I have had several pups receive Drontal over the years and they do not react well. Your pup doesn’t need the chance of being traumatized by this wormer. There are plenty of other options your vet can choose as a wormer. Again, you need to be proactive to keep your pup safe!

Call or email anytime 6:30am to 9pm!

Royal Flush Havanese Puppy Feeding, Grooming, Socializing Instructions

HAVANESE FEEDING SCHEDULE – Life’s Abundance Small/Medium Breed Puppy Food

This is the best food you can give your pup/dog throughout all stages of life. Puppies should be fed 3 times a day. I feed approximately 1/8 cup dry food per FEEDING for an 8 week old pup. Pick up the food bowl after 15-20 minutes. It is also a good idea to turn the food dish or to offer your puppy bits from your hand now and then. In this way he/she learns to trust you. Increase the amount of food as your pups grows according to the directions on the bag, plus 25% until your pup is a year old. Reduce to 2 meals per day by age 3 months. He/she should look full but not round after eating. A thinner puppy will grow up healthier than a fat one. As a housebroken adult, it is okay to leave food down all the time if you choose to do so. I offer water during feedings to pups until they are housebroken so I know when they are likely to need to go outside to eliminate. As they become housebroken, I also leave water down throughout the day.

Pups should not exercise too much after eating and drinking because they can develop bloat which is life threatening situation. Do not give your puppy bones or rawhide. Bones can splinter and tear the stomach and intestines and rawhide can swell and get caught in the throat and intestines. I offer Nylabone and rope toys. Up to the age of 9-12 months the pup will get enough exercise just playing around the house. Once the youngster is old enough, increased exercise is acceptable. If you plan to walk or run with your dog when he/she is old enough be sure he/she is on grass. Cement and asphalt are tough on the joints. When your pup is old enough to jump up, he/she is old enough to jump down. Children should be on the floor when they hold puppies so they are not accidentally dropped as they squiggle to get free!

The puppy should be brushed every day in order to develop a good strong coat that is free from mats. The nails should be cut every 2 weeks along with cleaning the ears. In cleaning the ears, make sure they are dry when finished. When bathing your dog you should put cotton in the ears so they don’t fill with water which can lead to bacteria build up and ear infections. You should pull out any hairs that may grow inside the ears. Start training your puppy immediately, 5 or so minutes at a time.

To housebreak your puppy he must go out often: upon waking, after playing, eating, drinking, after each nap and before retiring. Give your puppy constant love, assurance, exposure and the proper amount of exercise. I strongly recommend that you take your puppy for car rides, walks and into shopping areas where there a lot of people (after his/her 4th shot). This is the best way to socialize your puppy. It is also recommended that you start leash training your puppy immediately.

Many people allow their enthusiasm for their pets to override their common sense and dogs are being bred with little thought as to their suitability for breeding. Bloodlines are being ignored and so are type, genetics, health and temperament. It is far more challenging to improve the breed than to simply put male and female together. Endless research, time, energy and sleepless nights have gone into producing each quality Royal Flush Havanese puppy. Always feel free to call or email me with questions, and of course pictures of your new baby as he/she grows! PLEASE SPAY OR NEUTER YOUR PET!! It will make for a much better companion and is healthier as they age. Ask your Vet when he/she recommends that you spay or neuter your youngster! Puppy Etiquette 101

NuVet Supplements

As a dog breeder, animal health is my top priority. That’s why NuVet Plus immune system builder is required as part of extending your pet’s 2 year Health Guarantee to 6 years. Even though we feed the best dog food, kibble an only hold so many ingredients. As I said above, NuVet supplements bridge the gap between average and SUPERIOR health for your canine companion. Since day one your pup’s parents have been given NuVet Plus Canine wafers, therefore your pup has been receiving the benefits since he/she was born. All of my dogs get NuVet on a daily basis. I strongly recommend using this product because I believe it has made a difference in my dogs and puppies in keeping them healthy and in good condition from nose to tail. Hundreds of thousands of dogs and cats are using NuVet to protect against most ailments (from back yard pesticides, pet food allergies and hormones, toxic formaldehyde in furniture and carpeting, ailments transmitted from dog parks and the vet’s office, etc), while maintaining a beautiful skin and coat. This is not just a vitamin. It’s an immune system builder with a precise balance of vitamins, minerals, omega fatty acids, amino acids and high-potency antioxidants. That’s why it works so well through all three stages of a dog’s life. For younger dogs (under 2 years old), it strengthens their immune system, while building and strengthening the cardiovascular, skeletal and nerve systems. For dogs in their prime (age 2-8), it improves the luster of their skin and coat while protecting against allergies, skin and coat problems, staining from tears, digestive problems, etc. For older dogs (over 8 years old), it helps protect against tumors, premature aging, cataracts, heart conditions, diabetes and many types of cancer, while extending the life and improving the vitality of many dogs. I highly recommend NuVet Plus to keep your pet on the path to perfect health! It’s not available in stores, and is only available to the general public with an order code from an authorized pet professional. For your convenience, you may order directly from the manufacturer (at up to 50% off what most veterinarians charge) by calling 800-474-7044 and using Order Code: 11839, or ordering online at www.nuvet.com. You can also save an additional 15% and assure you never run out of NuVet by choosing the “AutoShip” option at check out. I don’t know why, but the little puppies usually don’t care for the taste of the NuVet wafers. I crush up 1/2 wafer daily and sprinkle it on breakfast. They ingest most of it this way. When they are older they seem to enjoy the vitamins more and will take them as a treat. We humans take our vitamins and supplements in hopes that it will keep us healthier longer. My husband is proof that the right diet and supplements can starve and kill cancer. We want to do the same good for our dogs. Optimal nutrition, optimal supplement. NuVet also makes a wonderful Puppy Shampoo! It’s baby mild, make with no dyes or harsh chemicals, is hypoallergenic, deodorizing and leaves hair silky, manageable and shiny! Your pup’s health is guaranteed an EXTRA 4 YEARS TO 6 YEARS if you keep your pup on NUVET and continue to feed LIFE’S ABUNDANCE! That’s how confident I am in the abilities of both this supplement and dog food to keep your pet HEALTHY!

Collar and Leash & Stair Training Your Havanese Puppy

Training Your Havanese Puppy to Accept a Collar

Young pups are often bewildered or unsure of themselves and their newly acquired leash and collar. It usually takes only a few hours for a pup or even an adult dog to adjust to a collar. Choose a collar that fits comfortably but securely. Choke collars are a training aid and should never be used as a substitute for a regular buckle type collar. The collar should have an identification tag and license attached. Simply put the collar on the dog and let him jump, squirm, roll and paw at it if he wishes. Don’t encourage the behavior by laughing or trying to soothe him. Do not reprimand him either. It’s best to just ignore him and let him get used to it or provide some distraction to get his mind off the collar. Playing, training and eating work well to get the pup’s mind off the collar. Once the dog accepts it, he won’t even know it’s there. It’s similar to a person getting used to wearing a ring or watch for the first time.

Training Your Havanese Puppy to Accept a Leash

Once your pup accepts the collar, put his leash on and then just sit and watch. Obviously, do this indoors or in a secure confined area. Let your puppy drag the leash around on his own but keep a close eye on him so that he doesn’t tangle it or get hurt. Leave it on for just a few minutes at first. Later, repeat the exercise for longer periods of time. Put your pup on leash during mealtimes, so he associates the leash with a pleasant event. If he is very fearful of the leash, you may want to put it next to the food bowl for a while before attaching it to his collar. Eventually he will see that no harm is coming and there indeed is nothing to be afraid of. When you are sure he is completely comfortable walking around with the leash on, pick up the other end for a few minutes. Do not try walking him yet. Just hold onto the other end and let him lead you around. Try not to get into a position that will make him pull or strain on the leash or he will probably become afraid of it again. If he sits down, that is okay. You just sit down too. Try backing up and enticing him to come towards you. If he hesitates, don’t pull or drag him by the leash. Try luring him over to you with a treat or toy. When he starts to walk, praise him profusely so he knows how happy you are. Give him lots of time to get used to his leash and always try to make it a pleasant experience. Give your pup lots of practice getting used to walking on leash at home, since it is a familiar environment with minimal distractions. When he is comfortable indoors, try going outdoors. Again, begin in an area with only a few distraction such as your front or back yard. When the two of you have mastered this, you are ready for places where there are more distractions. This exercise won’t be difficult, since you’ve both had lots of practice beforehand at getting it right. If your pup is biting and chewing the leash, try applying bitter apple or some other unpleasant tasting (but nontoxic) substance to the leash. Reapply before every outing. Remember to always walk your dog on-leash. A dog off-leash is always in danger; accidents happen very quickly. Your dog’s safety as well as compliance with your local leash law, is your responsibility.

Training Puppy to Climb Stairs

If your dog is afraid of stairs, or simply does not know how to climb them, then begin slowly to build her confidence. Start off at the bottom of a flight of steps. A wide, shallow stairway will probably be least frightening for your dog. Go up one step; encourage and lure your dog up with your voice, a food treat or a toy. When she is successful, give her lots of reward and praise. Then go back down that same step. Repeat only one step over and over until your dog goes up and down with ease and courage. Wait a while, and then try two steps. When your dog feels secure going up and down two steps, then try three steps and so on. Never force your dog to go up or down as this will only frighten her and slow the process. Always use praise and lures to get your dog to go up or down a step. Don’t rush her into doing more than she can, take things “one step at a time.”

Traveling With Your Havanese

CANINE TRAVEL TIPS

• CALL AHEAD: Make sure wherever you’re plans are taking you that your pup is allowed.
• BEFORE DEPARTURE: Make sure your pup has had all his shots. Ask your Vet for a Health Certificate and copy of rabies vaccination and keep this with you at all times. Tell your Vet where you are going and see if there are any additional shots or treatments he suggests that would be a good idea specifically for your destination area. Your pup should wear a collar and engraved tag with your phone number at all times. Have your pup get used to a crate if you haven’t already done so.
• PACKING: Leash, crate, bed, food and water dishes, medications and water from home. Strange water can cause diarrhea. Pack towels, toys, brush and small plastic bags for cleaning up after he eliminates. Take enough food and vitamins for the whole trip. Bring Nutri Cal and give to your pup every couple of hours during travel to keep hypoglycemia at bay.
• DRIVING: Your pup should ride in his crate in the car. It is safer for you and him. Offer him a little water when you stop for him to relieve himself. He should eat very light on a road trip so he doesn’t get car sick. Open the car window a bit but never enough to let him jump out. Never leave your dog in the car on hot days. If it’s 90 outside it could quickly reach 140 in the car!
• USE YOUR PUP’S LEASH: Unless you are on private property and have permission to have your pup off leash AND totally trust that he will not disappear, please always keep him on a leash. Retractable leashes are great!
• PICKING UP AFTER YOUR PUP: Always take small plastic bags to scoop your pup’s poop.

ENJOY YOUR VACATION!

Crate Training Your Havanese Puppy

A dog crate is your puppy’s private den, his special place – a security blanket. He is not afraid or frustrated when he is closed in. Rather he prefers having a structured life. A crate should only be large enough for your puppy to stand, sit and lay in comfortably. Any extra room will encourage your pup to use his crate as an apartment with a bedroom AND a bathroom. If you use a wire crate you can put a blanket over the top and sides to provide more security and prevent drafts. Be sure your crate is placed where you spend a lot of time. Your pup doesn’t want to feel isolated. Ensure that there is not too much heat, sun or that it is too cool. At night, you can bring your pup’s crate into the bedroom or have another crate in the bedroom for him. He will almost immediately be able to sleep through the night in his crate. He may wake up the first few nights but just take him out to do his business, praise him and put him right back in his crate until the morning. As he gets older and you can count on him being housebroken, you can leave the crate door open at night. If he does well you can eventually remove the crate altogether. You might want to leave light music playing when you aren’t with your pup.

Music is soothing. Any complaining your pup might do initially is not caused by the crate but by him learning to accept the controls of his new and unfamiliar environment. You should get your puppy used to the crate with ½ hr sessions (1-2 hrs max), preferably during his regular nap time. Make sure he has a chew toy in his crate as a distraction. If he barks or cries, first try to ignore him and hopefully he will quiet down in a couple of minutes. If not, a sharp NO or the quick shake of a can with a few coins inside should stop him. It might take 3-8 objections from your pup but he should quiet. After 10 minutes of quiet, take him out of his crate but don’t make a fuss. You don’t want him to immediately associate coming out of his crate with lots of positive attention or he won’t want to be in his crate.

Children should respect the crate and not use it as a toy. However, everyone should be able to reach into the crate and touch the puppy so he doesn’t get over protective of his crate. Never put a puppy pad used for elimination in his crate. They are designed to encourage your pup to eliminate. Never put your puppy in his crate for punishment. Used properly, a dog crate can benefit both dogs and people. You can be comfortable knowing that when you leave your pup alone, he is not destroying or soiling your home. He can travel safely in his crate too. When you come back after leaving your pup in his crate, don’t immediately go to the crate and make a big fuss over your pup! It will encourage him to make a big fuss every time he thinks you’ve come back too. Instead, when you come back do something else for half a minute or so and then calmly go to his crate and take him out, telling him what a good boy he is. Always take your pup outside to eliminate as soon as you take him out of his crate. If you need to leave your young pup alone for more than a couple of hours at a time you can gate off an area for him with his opened crate, newspaper or a puppy elimination pad and food and water if you won’t be home at a scheduled feeding.

Puppy Proofing Your Home

Havanese Puppies have a tremendous amount of energy and natural curiosity, and they love to explore the world around them. This is part of what makes them so much fun, but it can also lead them into harmful situations. Before you bring your new puppy home, make sure you survey your home for potential dangers. In many ways, making your home safe for a puppy is similar to making your home safe for a toddler. The following tips are designed to help you keep your puppy safe. Many of the following warnings apply for adult dogs as well:

Indoor hazards

• Know which plants are toxic  and place them out of reach, or replace them with nontoxic plants. Toxic plants commonly found indoors include dieffenbachia, azalea, Calla lily, and philodendron.
• Keep all medications, including any dog supplements, in a safe area the puppy cannot access. Do not leave vitamins or other pills out on the kitchen counter or table. A determined chewer can make short work of a plastic container. Puppies are surprisingly quick at pulling things off of end tables or other low surfaces.
• Put bathroom trash cans up high where your dog cannot get into them. Sanitary supplies and used razors are only two of the hazards here.
• Full sinks, bathtubs, or toilets with open lids can be a drowning hazard. Avoid automatic toilet bowl cleaners if you cannot keep your puppy from drinking out of the toilet.
• Keep cleaning supplies in high cupboards or use childproof latches to secure lower cupboards. Remove the puppy from the area when you are using liquid or spray cleaners. They can get into the eyes of a curious puppy, and the vapors can be harmful to lungs and eyes.
• Be careful of your puppy around furniture. A rocking chair can harm a puppy’s tail or leg, and a curious puppy may crawl under an open recliner or sofa bed.
• Electrical cords are a big danger to puppies, who often chew on them while playing. This can cause burns in the mouth, electrical shock, or death by electrocution. Tie up loose electrical cords and keep them out of sight. Run cords through purchased spiral cable wrap, cord concealers, or even PVC pipe to keep them safe from your puppy.
• Any type of fire can be dangerous. Screen off fireplaces and wood stoves. Never leave your puppy unattended in a room with an open flame or space heater.
• Cords for drapery and blinds can cause strangulation. Either tie up the excess cords, or cut the loop in the cord.
• Swallowed clothing may cause a dangerous intestinal blockage. Keep socks, nylons, underwear, and other clothing put away. Keep laundry baskets off the floor.
• Keep small objects (coins, jewelry, needles and thread, straight pins, yarn, dental floss, rubber bands, paper clips, toys, etc.) out of your puppy’s reach. Jewelry and coins are easily swallowed and can contain metals that are toxic. Keep costly items and those of sentimental value put away until your puppy is older and less likely to chew.
• Keep fishing lines, hooks, and lures stored out of reach.
• Be careful about closing doors as you walk through – your puppy may be right behind you and get caught.
• Keep doors and windows closed. Keep screens on windows and sliding glass doors securely fastened and in good repair, to keep your puppy from falling through or escaping.
• Close off stairwells with a baby gate.
• Many dogs will eat cat feces from the litter box if given the chance. In addition to being a disgusting (at least to us!) habit, this can be a dangerous health hazard. Cat litter can cause an intestinal obstruction, and in addition, any intestinal worms the cat has may be passed on to the dog. One solution may be to put the litter box behind a baby gate, either in a separate room or in a closet with the gate across the doorway. The gate can be raised up from the floor to allow the cat to go under it, unless the dog is able to go under it also. If the cat cannot jump over the gate easily, a stepstool beside the gate can help.
• Many human foods can cause problems for pets. Chocolate, onions, alcohol, and foods high in fat, sugar, or salt can be very harmful. Chocolate, coffee, and tea all contain dangerous components called “xanthines,” which cause nervous system or urinary system damage and heart muscle stimulation. Problems from ingestion of chocolate range from diarrhea to seizures and death. All chocolate, fudge, and other candy should be placed out of your dog’s reach. Grapes and raisins contain an unknown toxin, which can damage the kidneys.
• Tobacco products, including nicotine gum and patches, contain substances that can be toxic or fatal to dogs.
• Chicken bones, plastic food wrap, coffee grounds, meat trimmings, the string from a roast – all pose a potential hazard. Scraps from ham or other foods high in fat can cause vomiting and diarrhea, or pancreatitis. To be safe, put food away immediately, dog-proof your garbage, and do not feed table scraps to your dog. Uncooked meat, fish, and poultry can contain disease-causing bacteria, such as E. coli, and parasites, such as Toxoplasma gondii. These uncooked foods should not be given to your dog. For your own health, as well as your pet’s, wash utensils that have been in contact with raw meat, and cook meat thoroughly.

Outdoor hazards

• Do not leave your puppy outside unsupervised.  Read more about common outdoor hazards by reading our articles, “Outside Dangers To Dogs- Don’t Read If You Have A Weak Stomach!” and “Avoiding Springtime Hazards.” 
• Provide your puppy a separate area of your yard to use as his bathroom area. Use fencing, or other means, to keep him out of areas where children may play, especially sand boxes.
• Some outdoor plants and trees can be toxic to dogs. Common ones include potato (all green parts), morning glory, foxglove, lily of the valley, and oak (buds and acorns). Many bulb plants, such as daffodils, are also poisonous. Cocoa bean mulch can be toxic to dogs. Some dogs chew and swallow landscaping stone, which can cause dangerous intestinal blockage.
• Make sure all gasoline, oil, paint, lawn fertilizers, insecticides, and auto supplies are placed into secure containers, out of reach. Be especially careful with antifreeze and rat poison, both of which taste good to dogs and both of which can be deadly if ingested.
• Pools, ponds, and hot tubs should be covered or fenced off. Drainpipes can also pose problems.
• Fire rings, barbecues, and other heat or fire sources pose the potential of causing burns.
• Keep all food and other garbage in securely closed containers. Used coffee grounds can contain harmful amounts of caffeine, and decomposing food may contain toxic molds. Keep compost in a secure bin.
• Walk around your property and look for other areas or items that could be a hazard to your puppy, such as broken glass, exposed nails, or other sharp objects. Plan how you will restrict your puppy’s access to these areas.

Bringing home a new puppy is a time of fun and excitement. Following these tips will help you keep your new friend safe, so that the two of you can enjoy each other’s company for years to come.

Caring for Your Havanese’s Eyes, Ears and Nails

Check your dog’s eyes every day and keep them clean. It’s normal to find a little matter on the inside corners. Wipe it away with a cotton ball moistened with warm water. Never rub over the eye, just the inside corner. Make sure the hair is dry. Moist hair can harbor bacteria and cause a foul odor. A professional groomer can thin hair around the eyes to diminish tear staining. Minerals in the water can make tear staining worse. Use filtered water whenever possible. Angel Eyes is a product proven to reduce tear staining. Wipe the underside of your dog’s ears with a cotton ball moistened with warm water, mineral oil or an ear cleaning solution available at pet stores. Wipe only what you can reach. DO NOT USE QTIPS. You can irritate the ear canal and do damage with a Qtip. If there is a foul odor, material resembling dried blood, swelling, or if your dog violently shakes his head or carries it tilted – consult your veterinarian. If you bath your dog, put cotton in his ears. It’s very important to keep his ears dry so bacteria can’t grow. Your groomer will pluck the ear hair regularly. Nails should be trimmed with dog nail trimmers at least once a month, but every 2 weeks is ideal to keep them short. You should have a small container of clotting powder (we like Cut Stop) in case you trim too close. Put your dog on a nonslip surface. Pick up one foot and pull it slightly forward. Inside each nail is a pink area filled with blood called the “quick”. You can see through a transparent nail but you won’t be able to see this through a black nail. Cut the nail back a little snip at a time stopping just before the groove on the underside of the nail. If you do snip the quick, press some clotting powder on the spot and apply pressure for a few seconds. Start trimming nails when your pup is young and he will get used to it as part of his grooming routine.

How To Clean Floppy Dog Ears

Royal Flush Havanese Puppy Training – Housebreaking Made Simple

There are 3 basic dog facts that will help you housebreak your pup quickly. First, dogs are basically neat and prefer not to mess where they sleep. Second, puppies need to eliminate almost always as soon as they wake up and within 20 minutes of eating or drinking. Finally, dogs usually urinate on a spot where they or another dog have previously urinated. I suggest keeping your pup on a short leash right by your side or in your lap in the house until you can somewhat trust him not to eliminate inside. Timing is everything. Take your pup out of his crate upon waking in the morning and on a long leash bring him to the place outside where you want him to do his business. If he has soiled anything, put whatever he has soiled in that spot. If he hasn’t soiled anything GREAT! Tell him to “do your business” or “go potty” or whatever command you have decided to use when you want him to eliminate. Be patient. If he just sits, encourage him to get moving because moving encourages elimination! When he does his business, tell him he is good boy. No treats needed. Just praise him. When you bring him inside, put him back on the short leash. Repeat this procedure after he eats and drinks and every time you take him out of his crate. Also, a young pup needs to eliminate after he plays for a little while (20 minutes or so). Take your puppy out frequently when he is little and try not to give him the opportunity to have an accident! It’s much easier to create good habits than correct bad ones. If your pup has an accident, clean it up with a product made to get rid of scent and stain and figure out what YOU need to do differently so he doesn’t have the opportunity to make that mistake again. If you catch him in the act, say “NO” and take him directly to the place outside you want him to eliminate. Praise him lavishly when he does his business in the right spot! Everyone helping with your puppy should follow the same procedure. Your puppy wants to do the right thing. He will be housebroken soon!

New Havanese Puppy Dos and Dont’s

You are proud of your new puppy, and you want to show him/her off to the whole world , but DON’T! At least for a while. Wait until your puppy has had a series of shots recommended by your veterinarian. Until then, to help protect your puppy from viruses and other illnesses, take these precautions:

• NEVER TAKE YOUR YOUNG PUPPY TO ANY PUBLIC PLACE WHERE THERE ARE OR WERE OTHER DOGS!
• Wait until your puppy has completed his series of shots and your Vet says he is protected. Don’t take a chance!
• NO public parks
• NO pet shops (even those that don’t sell pets)
• NO place where other dogs are present or have recently been
• NO contact with outside dogs until completing the vaccines.

TRY TO PREVENT YOUR PUPPY FROM:

• GETTING OVERTIRED- Remember, puppies will sleep 19-21 hours a day! Schedule short playtimes for the 1st 2-4 months.
• GETTING OVERHEATED-When a puppy plays vigorously outside and then comes into a warm house, he could become overheated. Also never play strenuously for 24 hours after the puppy receives vaccines. He could develop sore muscles and not feel well.
• GETTING STRESSED- Your puppy will be under stress for a few days because he has been separated from his family and familiar surroundings. Your puppy has left the environment he has been in since birth. Give him time to explore on his own when he is comfortable. You can expect a puppy to be shy or timid the 1st few days until he feels confident and safe in his new surroundings
• GETTING WET OR CHILLED- Young puppies have a hard time maintaining body temperature. If your puppy goes outside in damp or snowy weather, dry him thoroughly and provide a warm place for him to sleep.

ALWAYS DISINFECT YOUR HANDS AFTER TOUCHING DOGS OTHER THAN YOURS BEFORE YOU HANDLE OR FEED YOUR PUPPY!

Even though there are a number of precautions you should be taking to keep your puppy safe, it’s important for you still properly socialize your pup so that they are comfortable around people and other humans.  In the first months of your pup’s life, it’s OK to gradually let them around family members (see our tips on how to teach children to interact with new puppies here) as well as other household pets you may own (see our advice on adding a second dog to your home here).  If you come across any new or unfamiliar animals on walks or in another home, make sure to always monitor your pup’s behavior and that the environment surrounding them is not overwhelming.  If your puppy acts up or is frightened during these first interactions, we have simple and helpful advice in our article, “How to Raise a Confident Puppy.”  Remember, training is key!  As long as you are watchful and patient, your dog will learn how to properly interact with others.  The younger you start, the less chances they will pick up and maintain poor behaviors with others.

Once your pup is fully vaccinated, you can start introducing them to public places and puppy classes.  As with any new experience, gradually introduce your puppy to new environments, so as to not overwhelm them.  The more that they are introduced to different environments, the more socialized they will become.  Always keep a watchful eye on your pup and be as prepared as possible in public places.  And, of course, always shower them with love and positive reinforcement when they do something well!